Fitting & Finishing

Factory stockmakers allowed a tolerance of 1/32", which is considered a good fit. By following these instructions, and by spending a little extra time, an even closer fit can be obtained relatively easily.

The secret lies in going slowly, being careful not to remove too much wood at one time. Remember: additional wood can always be removed, but once gone it's impossible to replace in a way that will be aesthetically pleasing. Of course, it also helps to have a critical eye while carefully checking your progress, and by exercising patience as you work.

Very few tools are required to properly fit PGW's semi-finished stocks. The single most important tool you will need is a file; the one most often used in fitting stocks is a typical flat, bastard cut file (this is included in our Deluxe Stock Finishing Kit). If possible, use one that is "safe" on one edge (no teeth). This will allow you to widen the tang inletting without cutting a groove along the bottom. Also very helpful is a half-round bastard cut file for fitting the buttplate and shaping the comb area of the stock.

Fitting the rounded areas at the ends of the tangs is most easily done with a Dremel type rotary tool - but be careful! It can easily get away from you, quickly ruining your work (and, quite possibly, a good portion of your day). A much safer method is to use a small, rounded carving tool, available from a hobby or craft store. Lacking this, you can also use a sharp, fine-pointed knife.

An electric drill and the proper sizes of bits (preferably brad point) are needed for drilling the various screw holes. Also helpful is a bench vise, with padded jaws, for securely holding the stock while filing and drilling holes.

Using a small brush or cotton-tipped swab (included in our Stock Finishing Kit), apply a very thin, uniform coat of inletting black to the edges of the tangs and the rear mating surface of the receiver. Next, carefully slide the stock onto the receiver. Gently tap it into place using a rubber mallet or the heel of your hand. Remove the stock and note the locations where the black has transferred to the wood. This indicates where excess wood must be removed. Very carefully cut or file (as appropriate) the wood from the indicated areas.

The remainder of the fitting is simply a matter of repeating the above steps until the inletting black is uniformly transferred from the receiver to all mating surfaces of the stock.

The buttplate is fitted in the same manner.

To fit the forearm, work with the magazine tube in place (if applicable). If the barrel channel requires fitting, perform this step first. Next, fit the area of the forearm which extends into the forward part of the receiver. Once that is done, fit the outer, visible junction of the forearm with the receiver, followed by the barrel band or forearm cap. As with fitting the buttstock, use inletting black to obtain uniform wood-to-metal contact.

Once the stocks have been fitted, drill the necessary holes and secure the stocks to the rifle and buttplate. Using a pencil with a very fine point, mark around all metal surfaces which come into contact with the wood. Very carefully file away excess wood to a point just above this line. To avoid marring the finish of the metal, this step is best performed with the stocks removed from the rifle.

Using a file, shape or "feather" the wood from the edges inward to obtain the proper finished shape. When filing and shaping, it is helpful to sight down the stock from end to end to avoid dips or bulges. The goal is to obtain a smooth, uniform finish with all contours flowing nicely, one into another. Be careful not to remove too much wood from the center portion of the stock as most stocks were originally shaped to have a slight bulge or "fish belly" in the middle, smoothly tapering outward to the ends. With close scrutiny, you will have a stock that will exactly match the contours of the original.

Begin with 120 grit sandpaper (included in PGW's Stock Finishing Kit). Sand lengthwise, with the grain, to remove all file marks. Be especially careful near the edges of the stock to avoid rounding.

Once all file marks are removed and the stock is uniformly smooth, repeat the step with the next-finer grit. Finish up with the finest grit, being sure there are no sanding marks from the previous coarser grits. We recommend 180, then 220 grits for finishing; these are included in our Stock Finishing Kits.

When sanding is completed the wood should project very slightly above all adjacent metal surfaces. All edges of the stock should be nice and sharp with no noticeable rounding.

If staining is desired, apply and buff well before this step. Be sure the stock is free of all sanding dust. Mix the PGW Filler/Sealer well to be sure all the filler is suspended in the mixture. Using a small paint brush, apply a moderately heavy coat to all outside stock surfaces, making sure all pores are filled.

If you like, a thin coat may also be applied to the inletted areas and under the buttplate. This will act as a barrier to seal out oil and moisture. Just be careful not to apply too much or the inletting will be too tight to fit on the rifle.

Allow approximately one hour to dry, then sand with extra-fine sandpaper. It is important to sand to bare wood to allow for penetration of PGW's Classic Oil Finish, but avoid over-sanding as this may open new, unfilled pores in the wood. On especially porous wood an additional coat may be required. It's important that you don't skip or skimp on this step - your final finish, and its durability, depends on how well the stock is sealed.

Precision Gun Works' Classic Oil Finish was developed many years ago to satisfy the need for an easy-to-use oil finish with a genuine, early original appearance. Much testing and reformulation was required to finally arrive at what we feel is the most authentic oil finish available. Tested under high humidity conditions in South Texas, this unique oil finish contains drying agents which allow for faster gratification with the finished product. PGW Classic Oil Finish will darken the tone of the walnut to some degree, but will not impart a reddish tint. For reddish color or an even darker walnut appearance, we recommend staining the wood before the filling/sealing step. Any hardware store or woodworking supply house can furnish a quality stain that will give the desired coloration.

Begin by shaking the bottle to be sure the oil is thoroughly mixed. For best penetration, the stock should be warm, or at least ambient room temperature. Avoid warming with an extreme heat source, or you run the risk of severely drying the stock, causing it to crack or warp.

Be sure the stock is clean and free of sanding dust. Then, using your fingertips or a soft cloth, apply the first coat of finish, rubbing it into the grain of the wood. Wipe away the excess oil and allow the stock to set for several minutes or longer.

Once the stock feels fairly dry to the touch, buff with 0000 steel wool or green Scotch-Brite pad (included in the PGW Stock Finishing Kit), following the grain of the wood. Wipe the stock clean with a soft cloth, then apply another coat as before. This time allow the stock to dry overnight or until no stickiness is detected. Buff again with steel wool or green nylon pad until the surface is smooth and has a satin sheen. Finally, wipe the stock clean and buff with a soft cloth.

Precision Gun Works' Gunstock Wax is a carnauba-based paste wax that will provide protection and beauty for your gunstock. To apply, make sure the stock is clean then, using a soft cloth or your fingers, rub a thin coat over the entire surface of the stock. Allow the wax to dry for five minutes only, then buff. Do not allow the wax to dry too long or it will be tough to buff.

We now offer two different types of wax; one is neutral and imparts no visible color to the stock. The other is a dark tinted wax, which gives a very slight bit of darkening to the finish tone. Either will keep a stock historically correct in appearance; the type of finish you choose will depend upon your personal taste. If you are trying to "age" a stock we recommend staining before the filling/sealing step, in addition to the darker wax. The oil finish will also darken the wood to a certain degree. If stain is desired, it should be applied before the sealing step.

One of the greatest features of an oil finish, in addition to its rich, warm appearance, is the ease with which blemishes can be repaired. To obtain a satisfactory repair with a modern, polyurethane finish, the entire stock often has to be stripped and the finish reapplied. Too much work!

With an oil finish, on the other hand, only the affected area needs to be refinished. Should the stock get scratched, simply sand the marred area, apply filler/sealer, then follow with a coat or two of Classic Oil Finish. The once-blemished area should blend with the surrounding original finish to be unnoticeable.

We thank you for choosing PGW stocks and finish products. We feel confident that you will be pleased with the fruits of your labors; many of our customers report that fitting and finishing stocks is good "therapy" for them in that it requires patience, concentration, and basic craftsman skills, yielding a beautiful result you can be proud of.